Near to the square is the site of the colonial-era Murray House, relocated here from its origin in Central, which now houses an H&M and some other shops; walk past this, along a boardwalk through some tropical greenery overlooking the sea, and you’ll come across a tiny temple. Called Pak Tai temple (赤柱北帝廟), with a heft of history and gorgeous bay views, it’s a surprising slice of secluded spirituality. Hong Kong is a city of extremes, wealth, power, architecture and all things food, all things terrible and all things wondrous. People of many nations sharing a small spot on this planet and all trying to make their way upwards. The city is a like a spectacular national park for modern day society, imperfect, a magnified example of the struggles and triumphs of humanity. The architecture, the food, the people. All of it makes for a fascinating, exhausting whirlwind of an experience. You could live here all of your life and still not try every eatery nor summon the strength to know every corner or discover every sight.
What the future holds for Hong Kong as it is slowly devoured by Beijing – whether it will get chewed up and regurgitated as a lesser version of its wonderful self, or triumphs in its youthful fight for independence – is a history being written by its people and by Big China at this very moment. This madness, this freedom, this business, the jolting ramshackle shiny bubble of this techno-dys-utopia, may not exist so vibrantly, so liberally, for much longer.
🦀 Spicy Crab